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please contact the Searle’s Buccaneers officers at info@searlesbuccaneers.org.
There was little difference in the general appearance of St. Augustine’s Spaniards and the buccaneers who sacked the city. The town’s elite would favor military styles (St. Augustine was a presidio or garrison town). During this period, there were still few uniform regulations for Spanish troops in the New World– dress was left to the individual unit commanders. Consequently, there was little uniformity and Spain’s American garrisons tended to wear whatever clothing was available. We know that Spanish artillery crews were issued blue uniforms faced with red in the early 1660s, before a similar uniform dress was applied to the infantry, though it is currently unknown whether or not these were in use in St. Augustine. For contemporary pictorial references for period Spanish dress, two of the best resources are the art of Diego Velazquez and Bartolome Murillo. Both of these artists painted many works that show the common people of 17th-century Spain. Spanish colonists in the New World would have worn much the same styles and garb. Native Americans (e.g., Timucuan, Apalache, Guale, etc.) in the town would dress the same as the Spaniards; rural, pagan natives would be in traditional garb – loincloths, tattooed, painted, etc. The apparel of slaves would be similar to poor Spaniards. Buccaneers would look much like Spaniards, only more sea-faring garb – Monmouth caps, jerkins, etc. Their garb would be more eclectic and probably more worn – patched, stained with tar/rum/grease/wine/sweat/blood, ragged, etc. They wore what they could plunder, mostly, and wore it until it rotted away or they could steal replacements. The most distinctive difference in the buccaneers’ appearance is that they would be MUCH better armed than the Spaniards. As professional raiders, they carried as many weapons as possible – the “tools of their trade.”
Some examples of correct “period” garb may be seen on the Mission San Luis Web site at http://www.missionsanluis.org/ ; http://www.missionsanluis.org/research/history.cfm. Recovered examples of some of these items may be seen online at http://www.missionsanluis.org/research/collection/index.cfm and in the Florida Museum of Natural History’s St. Augustine: America’s Ancient City Exhibit Timeline/Sections 3 & 4: http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/staugustine/timeline.asp.
Most garb worn by English Civil War re-enactors would be appropriate for this Event./p>
Most men, both Spanish and buccaneer, wore uncurled locks down to their shoulders. Traces of beard and moustache lingered until the 1680’s. Most men (and certainly most buccaneers) did not shave daily.
During this period, it was considered rude or odd to appear in public without some form of head covering, unless one was too poor to afford such. The climate of Florida and the Caribbean also warrants head covering. If possible, hats should look used and worn – dusty, stained, a hole or two (bullet for buccaneers?), perhaps. Hats should be made of natural materials (e.g., felt, wool, straw, etc.) and be dyed in dark colors or maintain their natural colors.
Spanish – Broad-brimmed felt hats were almost universally worn. “Sad” colors were the standard – black was preferred; dark gray, dark blue, dark brown were also used. Only the presidio’s elite (e.g., the governor, garrison officers, etc.) could afford expensive, imported ostrich plumes for their hats. If hat plumes were worn by most townsfolk, they would be from local birds (e.g., eagle, hawk, owl, turkey, spoonbill, egret, pelican, ibis, heron, cardinal, jay, etc.). Other wealthy men may have decorated their hats with clusters of looped, silk ribbons. Flowers and sprigs of greenery were also occasionally worn on hats by men of all classes. If hatbands of cloth or leather were worn, they were usually of darker colors - black, dark gray, blue, brown, red, green, etc.). Unless you are a musketeer, please avoid cocked hats – those “pinned up” on one side. They were the exception, not the rule. Also, no tricorn hats will be allowed – they didn’t come into common use until the 1690’s. Nor will flatcaps be allowed – they were already considered somewhat old-fashioned by the time of the Armada.
Some townsfolk, such as farmers, fishermen, etc., would have worn flat-crowned, broad-brimmed straw hats (the ancestor of the sombrero). These should also appear to be used and worn. Straw hats may have had a thong or strap to hold the hat on or let it hang down the back, similar to modern cowboy hats.
The sailors who crewed St. Augustine’s ships may have worn knitted caps. Although they most likely would’ve worn the traditional red caps associated with Spanish sailors, dark or natural colors would also be correct (e.g., gray, dark red, blue, green, etc.).
“Christianized” natives would have worn the same head coverings as the town’s Spanish inhabitants. Rural or pagan natives would most likely not have worn any head covering, but kept their hair in the traditional top-knot.
Slaves would have probably worn the same head coverings as the poorer Spaniards (e.g., straw hats, caps, etc. – see above). Colors would be the same as for the Spanish.
Buccaneer – The raiders would have worn the same sort of hats as the Spaniards, though possibly in slightly brighter colors and in more eclectic styles. Again, they wore whatever they could loot or procure in pirate havens such as Providence or Port Royal. Broad-brimmed felt and straw hats would be common (see above), though Searle’s crew would have noticeably worn more sailors’ caps (see above). Some of the buccaneer’s head gear may have been ethnic - possibly feathers, etc., for Native American crewmen, bonnets for Scots, caps or turbans for black buccaneers, etc.
Spanish – Many of the presidiales would have worn crucifixes – gold or silver, possibly elaborate for the rich; pewter, bone, or wood, probably plain for most. Officials and garrison officers would probably have worn cravats. Townsmen may have worn neckerchiefs (due to the climate) of undyed or dark colors, though some brightness (natural colors) and patterns might be expected here (stripes, small figures, etc.).
“Christianized” natives would have worn the same neckwear as the town’s Spanish inhabitants. Rural or pagan natives would have worn necklaces of shell, ceramic, metal, or wooden beads, trade goods, etc.
Slaves would most likely have worn the same neckwear as poor Spaniards (e.g., plain crucifixes, neckerchiefs, etc.). They may have worn necklaces of shell, ceramic, metal, or wooden beads, trade goods, etc.
Buccaneer – Ship’s officers may have worn cravats. Most crewmen would have worn neckerchiefs (due to the climate) of undyed or dark colors, though some brightness (natural colors) and patterns might be expected here (stripes, small figures, etc.). Some buccaneers may have worn crucifixes (e.g., French, Spanish renegades, etc.). Native American and black buccaneers may have worn necklaces of gold, silver, shell, ceramic, metal, or wooden beads, trade goods, etc.
Spaniards –Florida’s Spaniards were most likely still wearing “English Civil War-style” doublets. Some may have worn something similar to a “bolero” coat or shell jacket, a short, close-fitting, skirtless jacket ending at the waist. Coats would have been made of natural materials (e.g., linen, summer-weight wool, some cotton) in natural or dark colors (e.g., blue, brown, green, dark red/yellow, etc.). Coats were cut with close fitting torsos and looser, split sleeves with close-set buttons and buttonholes, from shoulder to wrist, so that they might be fastened, if desired. Some braid (dark colors) would be appropriate on the seams or cuffs of presidio officials and officers. A noticeable feature of coats in this period was the presence of many buttons (about an inch apart, metal or cloth-covered wood) down the front of the doublet, on open cuffs, etc. Epaulets may still have been worn by some. Shirts were made of linen, fine or coarse, white or natural, depending on the wearer’s means, cut full in body and sleeve. Shirts were closed at the neck and cuff by ties or ribbons. Ponchos and jerkins may have been worn by the town’s workers.
“Christianized” natives would have worn the same coats and shirts as the town’s Spanish inhabitants. Rural or pagan natives may have worn mix of Spanish shirts and loincloth or the traditional native style – no torso covering at all, except for tattoos.
Slaves would most likely have worn the same torso covering as poor Spaniards – poncho, jerkin, shirt, etc.
Buccaneers – In the 1650-60s, many Jamaican buccaneers were discharged English soldiers. They wore old military uniforms, adapted to suit climate of the West Indies. Very popular with sailors was something similar to a “bolero” coat or shell jacket, a short, close-fitting, skirtless jacket ending at the waist, made of linen, summer-weight wool, or canvas. Jerkins or sleeveless vests, buttoned or tied, were also commonly worn. These would be made of light wool, linen, canvas, or leather; sometimes soaked in a light mixture of tar or wax, to waterproof. Dark or natural colors for jerkins and vests are appropriate. Sailors would have commonly worn coarse linen shirts, white or natural, with turnover collars worn open at the throat and fullish sleeves.
Spanish – Garrison officers would have worn a broad sash, wound around the waist rather than draped over the shoulder.
Spanish/Buccaneers – Most men, during this period, would have worn a belt or sword belt/hanger, from which would hang a knife, possibly a pouch, etc.
Spanish/Buccaneers – Knee-breeches, called “slops,” were tied close at the knee with garters or left open, tubular, like long shorts. Breeches would have been made of natural materials (e.g., linen, summer-weight wool, some cotton) in natural or dark colors (e.g., blue, brown, green, dark red/yellow, etc.). They were worn with a doublet, short jacket, or jerkin. The breeches of gentlemen and officers were often finished with braid or ribbons. Variations of these knee-breeches were worn by all classes – rich, poor, “Christianized” native, slave, Spaniard, and buccaneer.
Rural or pagan natives would have worn cloth or deerskin loincloths.
Stockings, of linen, summer-weight wool, or cotton, and in lighter colors than the breeches (white stockings were rare), were worn with shoes.
Spanish – The presidio’s officers and gentlemen would have worn thigh-length, “bucket” boots. Most St. Augustinians would have worn “latchet” shoes, tied by ribbons (for the rich) or leather laces (for the rest). Buckled shoes were not commonly worn in this area until the 1690’s.
Spanish workers and slaves may have worn an early form of the rope-soled espadrille (or espardenya), leather sandals, or “ropas” (sandals made of rope). These were worn with or without stockings.
Rural or pagan natives would have worn moccasins or gone barefoot.
Buccaneers – Crewmen usually went barefoot onboard ship, but wore shoes on land. Buccaneer officers would have bucket boots or latchet shoes (see above). Sailors would have worn latchet shoes or “ropas” (see above) on land.
While the attire of the Spanish women of Florida at the time of Searle's 1668 raid shares some similarities with the clothes worn by their European contemporaries, there are key stylistic differences. For contemporary pictorial references, two of the best resources are the art of Diego Velazquez and Bartolome Murillo. Both of these artists painted many works that show the common people of 17th-century Spain. Spanish colonists in the New World would have worn much the same styles and garb.
Much of the garb worn by women who participate in English Civil War re-enactments would be appropriate for this Event.
Both married and unmarried Spanish women usually wore their hair up in a knot or bun at the back of their heads during this period. Occasionally, they might have shorter locks of hair around their face curled into ringlets or one long lock on either side of their face curled and hanging down decoratively.
“Christianized” and rural/pagan native women would wear their hair loose or in one or two braids.
One of the most distinctive features of Spanish women’s garb was the head covering. When in public, Spanish women kept their heads covered with a veil - also known as a manta (a very long, usually rectangular piece of hemmed cloth that reached almost to the hem of their skirts) or a mantilla (a shorter piece of cloth, usually half-circle or rectangular in shape, that reached to the waist or just above). To appear in public without a veil would have considered extremely scandalous. For daily wear, the veil might be made of linen, fine cotton, or silk, and were usually black or white in color. The veil might be worn directly upon the hair or pinned to a small linen or brocade cap. While engaging in hard labor, women might wrap their manta around their heads in a loose turban.
“Christianized” native women would sometimes wear a rectangular manta upon their heads or draped around their shoulders. Rural or pagan native women might have worn feathers, shells, freshwater pearls, or trade beads in their hair.
Slave women would have probably worn the same head coverings as the poorer Spaniards or, possibly, turbans, if that was the custom in their country of origin.
Most of the presidio’s Spanish women would have worn crucifixes – gold or silver, possibly elaborate for the rich; pewter, bone, or wood, probably plain for most. Beaded necklaces were also popular with Spanish women, who preferred pearls or pearl-sized beads, of carved wood, glass, ivory, porcelain, precious stones, or precious metals. These were worn at choker length, medium length, and long-strand length.
“Christianized” native women would have worn crucifixes similar to the town’s Spanish inhabitants. They also wore multiple strands of beads, of carved wood or bone, or European trade beads made of glass or porcelain. Blue/red/white chevron beads were particularly popular amongst most Florida natives at this time. Rural or pagan natives would have worn necklaces of shell, ceramic, metal, or wooden beads, trade goods, etc.
Slave women would most likely have worn the same neckwear as poor Spaniards (e.g., plain crucifixes, etc.). They may have worn necklaces of shell, ceramic, metal, or wooden beads, trade goods, etc.
Both Spanish and “Christianized” native women usually had pierced ears and often wore pendant earrings of blue, green, or amber-colored glass. Wealthier presidio women also favored earrings of gold or silver, adorned with pearls, amber, or precious stones. Spanish and “Christianized” native women frequently wore chokers of cord or ribbon with a teardrop-shaped pendant of blue, green, or amber-colored glass or jet at the center of their throats. Spanish women frequently wore rings on their fingers, sometimes plain silver, gold, or jet. Rings set with a precious stone or stones were also worn. If a woman was married, she wore her wedding ring on the ring finger of her right hand, rather than the left.
Arm and wrist bands of beaten copper were popular with both “Christianized” and rural/pagan native women. Copper or unglazed, fired-clay gorget-pendants were also worn.
Slave women would most likely have worn the same accessories as poor Spaniards.
Recovered examples of some of these items may be seen online at http://www.missionsanluis.org/research/collection/index.cfm and in the Florida Museum of Natural History’s St. Augustine: America’s Ancient City Exhibit Timeline/Sections 3 & 4: http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/staugustine/timeline.asp.
Both Spanish and “Christianized” native women wore a chemise as their basic undergarment. This was an ankle-length, white/undyed linen or cotton garment with long or 3/4ths-length gathered sleeves and a gathered round or square neckline (occasionally, a very wide, nearly off-the-shoulder neckline). This garment is similar to a modern-day "granny nightgown.” Sometimes, the neckline was decorated with blackwork embroidery or a colored ribbon casing.
Over the chemise, there were several clothing options. Many Spanish women wore a 17th-century corset (with or without stomacher) under a fitted jacket or bodice. If a corset was not worn, the bodice or jacket (made of linen, summer-weight wool, or simple brocade) was fitted and perhaps lightly boned, to keep a trim shape. Some ladies' jackets would have had a peplum upon them; others ended neatly at the waist. If the jacket buttoned up the front, instead of being laced, women sometimes wore the jacket open or buttoned solely at the waist, in order to show off a stomacher or the neckline of the chemise. Corsets, jackets, and bodices would have been in natural or dark colors (e.g., blue, brown, green, dark red/yellow, etc.). It was a particularly Spanish style to have shoulder-caps or shoulder-crescents over a hanging sleeve. The sleeve could be tied on at the shoulder or partly open along the inside of the arm so that the wearer could decide whether she wanted to put her arm into the sleeve or simply let it hang down decoratively.
“Christianized” native women would either dress as the common Spanish women did or wear a chemise as their only torso garment, with perhaps layer a shawl, blanket, or pelt over it. The shawl/blanket/pelt would cross over the front of the torso and tuck into the waistband of the wearer's skirt. Rural or pagan native would have probably worn tattoos or paint on their torsos.
Slave women would have probably dressed as did the poorer Spaniards.
Most of the presidio’s women, during this period, would have worn a belt, from which would hang a knife, mirror, keys, possibly a pouch, etc.
Skirts were floor-length and made of linen, summer-weight wool, or silk. Spanish women preferred cartridge pleating in their skirts, if possible, but a finished waistband or drawstring waist was also common. They also preferred to wear at least two skirts for modesty, often tucking their upper skirt hem into their waistband at the front in order to show off the lower skirt (frequently of a contrasting color to the upper skirt).
A “Christianized” native woman would probably wear just one skirt over her chemise and not as fully cut as a Spaniard’s skirt. Rural or pagan native women would have worn cloth, deerskin, or moss loincloths.
Slave women would have probably dressed as did the poorer Spaniards.
Spanish, “Christianized” native, and slave women wore stockings of linen, summer-weight wool, or cotton (in brown, red, blue, yellow, green, beige, or black), sometimes cinched just below the knee with tied garters, when wearing shoes.
Some period paintings show Spanish women in shoes with a pointed toe peaking out from under the hem of their skirts. More practical, working-class shoes would have had rounded toes. Middle- and lower-class women’s shoes did not differ in style from men’s “latchet” shoes. See Men’s FEET section.
“Christianized” native women would often wear moccasins, simple leather sandals, or ropas. Rural or pagan native women would have usually gone barefoot.
Slave women were shod as were the poorer Spaniards, wore simple leather sandals or ropas, or went barefoot.
Warning Orders for March 2008 event
A More Complete Account of the Original Attack
Biography of Captain Robert Searle
Rules and Guidelines for the Event
Rules and Guidelines for Black Powder Weapons
Rules and Guidelines for Swords and Edged Weapons